The Only Blonde in Osaka in the Otago Daily Times

Today an article I wrote about Osaka was published in the travel section of the Otago Daily Times. It talks about some of my favourite places in Osaka that have been featured in past blog posts, like Dotombori, Amerika mura and Shinsekai.

You can read the article online here or after the jump...

Osaka Street Dance Summer Festival

Today we went to Osaka Castle park, with the intention of enjoying a nice, leisurely walk around the grounds followed by a glimpse of the majestic castle. Instead, we somehow ended up at the Street Dance Summer Festival, watching adolescent Japanese girls in various shades of fluoro dancing maniacally to hip hop music. Japan is full of surprises.

It was held in the Osaka Castle park outdoor band shell, and we literally just stumbled into it all, after hearing loud blaring music and smelling delicious festival food smells. It was a bit like a scene out of Toddlers and Tiaras... lots of little girls in bright pink costumes and crazy makeup trailing mothers with high heels and designer handbags. Then there were older girls in animal print with fake tattoos. And also a few muscly guys with sunglasses and real tattoos. Naturally, being patrons of the arts, we paid the 500 yen entry fee, and headed into the hip hop wonderland.

It was a stinking hot day, so we were given these funky Street Dance Summer Festival fans with our tickets. This is us sitting in the bleachers and looking gangsta (note how no one wanted to sit near us). We were the only foreigners there, apart from a middle-aged couple who wandered in with cameras around their necks looking very confused. They did not stay long.

The Festival went from 1pm to 7pm, although we only stayed for a couple of hours. Each dance group would perform a routine onstage, and every hour there was a break where the MC would talk to the crowd, or there would be a dance demonstration, where the audience could join in and learn a hip hop dance routine, like in the picture above. Or you could be like me, and use the break to go and get some takoyaki from the stalls outside.

The dance groups ranged in age and ability, from tiny wee beginners to older, more advanced dancers. The costumes, hair and makeup were pretty wild, and we guessed they were straight out of Amerika-mura, the centre for Osaka's hip hop culture. We were correct - the program for the Festival was full of advertisements for shops in Amerika-mura.

It was a brilliant afternoon, the dancers were so great and into it, and it was highly entertaining. Also entertaining was the fact that most of the dance teachers had neglected to recognise and bleep out the swear words out of the English hip hop songs... the result being that little 10 year olds were dancing in blissful ignorance to lyrics such as 'die mother f***er die mother f***er die'' and 'don't hide that pussy, divide that pussy'. I guess some things are best kept lost in translation.

Paws for Thought: A Cat Cafe in Osaka

I'm going to be honest and say that I'm uncomfortable with the way some animals are treated in Japan. On our second night in Tokyo, we were walking around Basketball Street in Shibuya - one of the rowdiest, busiest areas in Tokyo - and right in the middle of it all was a pet store. The windows were lit up with bright lights, and from floor to ceiling were tiny glass tanks, containing tiny newborn puppies, kittens, meercats, and even a baby spider monkey for sale. Some of the animals were adorned with accessories - clip on earrings, hairbows, and decorative collars. Young women crowded around the store, tapping on the windows, taking photos on their cellphones and exclaiming 'kawaii' (cute)! It was cruel and heartbreaking.

Japan's 'kawaii culture' often sees animals treated as fashion accessories. I've already talked a bit about the popularity of animal 'clothing' here - there are boutiques dedicated to selling dog outfits in every style. I've even seen a dog kimono. It's also not uncommon to see little dogs being taken along to department stores and game centres in their owners' handbags. At the other end of the spectrum, some animals are treated like humans - childless Japanese women will dress their dogs up in baby outfits and push them around in prams. To me, this culture seems unhealthy to say the least - for both the pet and the owner. And probably also for Japan's declining birth rate.

Which is why I was both curious and skeptical to experience one of Japan's famous cat cafes, where cat lovers go to get their furry fix in the middle of the city. I went to Neko no Jikan (Cat Time) in Amerika Mura, Osaka. It cost 1050 Yen for an hour of cat companionship and a drink.

'Cafe With Many Cats'

Tea time? More like cat time.

Before entering the cafe, there were a few rules to take note of. No flash photography, no loud voices, no feeding the cats, and no disturbing the sleeping cats. Then we removed our shoes, got our hands sprayed with sanitizer, and our 'Cat Time' began.

Inside the cat cafe - a jungle gym for cats

As we arrived right on opening time, most of the cats were still asleep. However, a young couple on a date came in shortly after us, and the woman instantly proceeded to break all the rules, loudly squealing 'kawaii', poking the sleeping cats on their noses and shoving her camera in their faces. Unsurprisingly, some of the cats' reactions were to try and claw her, resulting in her squeals changing to 'hidoi!' and 'kowai!' ('mean' and 'scary'). I have a suspicion that some of the cats at the cafe have had their claws surgically removed, to make them 'safer', but I hope I'm wrong.

This cat had one eye

And this cat had deformed ears

The cats themselves were a strange mix of luxury breeds, such as Maine Coons and Persians, and strays. Quite a few had something wrong with them - a missing eye, a stunted tail, or cut off ears. Apparently one of the functions of the cat cafes is to rescue cats off the streets, domesticate them, and provide them with a safe home for the rest of their lives. Which is nice. And you can tell they are well loved at the cafe - there were little albums around the place containing profiles of each cat, describing their individual personalities and histories.

Cat Profile Album

An example of a profile page - this cat is shy, apparently.

Cat names and profiles are posted on the wall, too - so you know who you're playing with.

There is no denying their novelty value - I have to admit, I enjoyed myself. But at the same time, I couldn't help but think that these cafes are there first and foremost to serve the customers, and not the cats. Already, there is debate being raised about whether or not the cafes are an exploitative environment for the animals. This article talks about a new law coming into effect this year, which will ban the display of animals in the evening. It will force some of Japan's cat cafes to close earlier at night, probably affecting the peak time patronage - most of the cat cafe regular are businessmen who come in the evening, after work.

Cat in the cafe looking down at the outside world.

Seeing one of Japan's famous cat cafes was certainly an interesting experience, but I don't know. I'm used to watching my cat play outside.

Osaka's Amerika-mura and the American Dream.

Leave through Exit 25 at Namba Station, and walk straight ahead for about five minutes - past the Korean Embassy, Citi Bank, and the Apple Store. Turn left down a dodgy little side street. And hey. Wassup y'all. You're in Osaka's own little America-town.

Amerika-Mura

We all have our own versions of the American Dream (mine involves Nashville and meeting Taylor Swift). Osaka's Amerika-mura fuses fast food chains, fashion, hip hop culture, and popular American iconography. The American flag is everywhere. So is Uncle Sam. There is even a Statue of Liberty.

American flag = everywhere.

Mini Statue of Liberty.

I'm not gonna lie, it's tacky. Chris Brown, Eminem and Bruno Mars blast at full volume in every shop. There are more tattoo parlours in Amerika-mura than I have seen in all of Japan so far. Male shop assistants wear beanies, baggy jeans, and have attempted to grow goatees that look more like pubes than facial hair. I saw at least 3 people walking their little chihuahua dogs through the streets - in one case, both the dog and the owner were wearing matching bright pink Adidas tracksuits. Ridiculous. Paris Hilton. I blame you.

Tell me, who looks good in a sequinned American flag bikini?!

Shop names also get lost in translation in their attempts to use the 'cool' English language. Would you really want to buy clothes at a place called 'Gross'? Or 'Mingy'? Or 'WOMB'?!? And is a hip hop shop called 'Brown Sugar' borderline racist?

The one redeeming factor of Amerika-mura is that, right in the middle of it all, there is a little concrete 'park', where you can sit and people watch. Because it is the people who frequent this place that makes it really interesting. Like Harajuku is to Tokyo, Amerika-mura is Osaka's centre of youth rebellion. For teenagers, Japan is a tough place to be. School sucks. Your parents are strict. You feel pressured to fit in with your friends. The emphasis is always on the good of the group - your class, your family, society. Amerika-mura is one place where you can be an individual - wear what you want, do what you want. Just be yourself. Maybe for the Osaka teenagers who hang out in Amerika-mura, that is their American Dream.

Man checking his phone casually. Wearing amazing outfit.

Girl with pink hair sits outside Womb.

Youth congregating in Ame-mura.

Graffiti murals at Ame-mura.